New Routes

 

BOOROOMBA

 

Spatch       25m        18

Start 5m left and down from the start of Incisor just right of the arete, and goes up through two horizontal breaks then up left around the arete to finish more easily up a groove to the belay for Incisor/Indecision. It is well protected with natural gear.      

Nick Herrald, Oliver Story.  Oct 2005

 

The Valerie Plame Affair     23

 

The bolts just to the left of Cakes and Ale.  Shares the same anchors as for Cakes and Ale.

Justin Ryan 2006

 

LEGGOLAND

 

Rock in a Sock      20

The blunt arete behind Hog Wall with 2 bolts.  

Chris Warner, March 08 

 

 

Never Enough       19

A few metres to the right. Start by stepping off the boulder, then 2 bolts. (Best to abseil down onto the boulder after climbing the other route)  

Chris Warner, March 08

 

TOWER ROCKS

 

Illusionary Lines        23

Takes the blunt arête to the right of Chopper with 2 bolts. Start up the easy slab then move right onto the arete.  

Andrew Bull, Feb 08 

 

Florescent          22

The line of bolts to the right of Atom Blaster.  

Andrew Bull, Feb 08 

 

Pass the Kettle     20

Further right again, start by stepping off the boulder.  

Chris Warner, Feb 08

 

Pass The Kettle

 

Chris Fitzgerald On Pass The Kettle 20

 

Chris Warner also has 2 bolted projects on the left hand end of the main boulder.

 

THE BELFRY

 

Return Of The Etrier    30m  A4R  (M7)

Starts 10m left around the corner from the start to Tracy Anne and Crystal Voyager up the obvious razor thin seam runningto the top. The first 10m is fairly overhung using  micro cams for thefirst 3m. The crack then closes to accept small to medium beaks and #1lost arrows. Climb through the bulge on more beaks and up the vertical wall on more beaks, pin stacks, fixed heads and a few rp's to a slopey mantle on top. Once through the bulge don’t zipper any gear as you will bounce off the adjacent car sized boulder at one third height.

Chris Fitzgerald 1/1/05   
Nathan Kukathas 1/1/05      
 (Both lead)

 

SNAKE ROCK

 

Reptilian         25 

The route goes straight up the middle of the wall between Snake-in-the-Grass and Red Belly. 

Dave McGregor. 25/8/02

 

Little Cherie    18

 

Up the nose of the lower left tier.

Lionel Meynadier, Justin Ryan 2008

 

Confict Therapy    22

 

2m to the left of Little Cherie.

Justin Ryan, Lionel Meynadier 2008

 

Disco Disco    26

 

The orange arete to the left of Crawlin King Snake. Up arete to the crux pulling over the rooflet.

Justin Ryan 2008

 

BANDITO WALL

 

Dollars for a Fast Gun        18m     23 

Route goes up the weakness on the arete at the far right of wall. 

Chris Warner, Sep 2004   

 

For a Few Dollars More      18m     23 

Up water smoothed rock at left of wall. 

Chris Warner, Sep 2004

 

TROJAN WALL

 

Onamatapea    18    45m  

Start as for Emu Parade on edge of large undercut overlap. A tricky start gains the slab. Head up the easy unprotected slab for 10m and arrange protection in the roof flake with a long runner.  Head up a few metres and follow the right edge of the unprotected arête to the horizontal break at 30m. A 0.5 and 1 cam do the trick here. Traverse right a few metres and use 3 cam for pro around the corner. Jam your way up the undercut slab. 

Dave Cameron and Hatice Sitki. December 2004

 

RED ROCKS

 

A few good sport routes have been put up here.

 

Ingrid Bergmann    16    10m  

 

This is the easiest route at Red Rocks.  It is the first climb at the far left hand end of the crag.  

Justin Ryan 2007 

 

Milla Jocavich    20    12m

 

The next climb to the right of Ingrid Bergmann. Trend left up the wall right of the tree.

Justin Ryan 2007

 

Straight Edged Emo    21     18m  

 

A good variation to Carp Attack. Start up Carp Attack and finish up the steep arete on the left to shared chains.

Justin Ryan, Adam Robins 2007 

 

Willy Wonka      18     15m

The third last climb at the far right hand end of the crag. Start in the same spot as In The End Zone then up and right to the set of chains under the roof. 

Justin Ryan 2007

 

HOLLYWOOD

 

Action Satisfaction    26

 

The most open handed of the 26's at Hollywood. Situated between The Crack and Weazels Ripped My Flesh.

Justin Ryan 2006

 

BITTANGABEE SEA CLIFFS

 

Underneath Work    21    10m 

Undercut start a few metres left of AQPFR. Crank hard and twist lock to small mantle edge. Desperate moves to crimpy edges on back wall. Arrange cams under rooflet flake, undercling and find the hidden flake up high. Cruise to the top. 

Dave Cameron, Richard Morely. 24 January 2005.   

 

Third Time Looser    18    10m 

Up edge of the thin central flake. Use 1½ and 2 cams in quartz intrusion at roof for pro.  Traverse left to the arête where a hidden thread allows a good rest.  Layback up the arête, gear in slots. 

Dave Cameron. 24 January 2005.   

 

Shits 6:30AM    23    12m 

Start as TTL. Crank through roof and up slopes to pocket. A jugular popping mantle leads to a good rest. Run it out to top. 

Dave Cameron. 24 January 2005.   

 

Yorkshire Girls Draw Blood    17    10m 

3 m right of NNA at obvious flakes. A tricky start then straight up flakes, great gear, great fun, very rough treatment for the uninitiated. 

Dave Cameron, Richard Morley. 24 January 2005.   

 

Beez Neez    11    14m 

South around the corner from Beer Battered Rock is an obvious crack 2m from the arête. A short climb with tricky moves at 4m. Has a nice top out and good protection. 

Alan Bainbridge, Mal MacDonnell 23 January 2005.  

 

6 Beers before Midnight    11    13m 

Mals description to go here, problem is he had 6 Beers before Midnight and can’t remember anything. Jug Haul/Crimp/Slap Dynamically/Layback/Mantle/Smear/Scum up the easy/tricky/difficult start, follow the obvious/not so obvious line/seam/slab/crack/flake of jugs/crimps/slopers/heucos to the crux. Finish as start. 

Mal MacDonnell, Alan Bainbridge. 23 January 2005.   

 

Mark’s Not Dead, he’s just pining for the Fjords    18    10m 

Start 3m right of the arête, head to right up crack a few metres, trend left slinging lumpy jug. Head left to arête using 1 and 1½ cams for protection. Continue up arête. 

Dave Cameron, Richard Morley. 23 January 2005.   

 

Orange Ruffy    22    10m 

Start as for MND. Head straight up from lumpy jug to hidden heuco. Move up and right along thin break then up small pockets to slopey mantle top out. Serious. 

Dave Cameron, Richard Morley. 24 January 2005.